--- On Thu, 20/11/08, John Hudson <...> wrote:

From: John Hudson <...>
Subject: RE: [bmw02] Oils and stuff.
To: "Paul Hill" <...>
Date: Thursday, 20 November, 2008, 8:52 PM
I am going to hijack this thread about oils for your
engines.
There is nothing wrong with using synthetic or semi
synthetic oils in your engines, provided the engine is in
good health.
What is critical is the clasification of the oil which is
API rated. You will find these codes on the front or back of
your oil container, sometimes in small print
If you buy some classic Oils, they are very low spec, ie
SE/SF and only suitable for basic OHV pushrod engines and
should be changed every 2500/3000 miles.
The latest API spec oils are SM/SJ/CF and the absolute
minimum spec I would accept/use is SH or SJ.
Then there is the subject of grade,ie 0W-50 etc. The
minimum should be 5W-50 but it also comes down to regional
climates as to what oils are sold. Generally, the colder the
climate, the lesser the number is, ie 0 or 5. All this means
is the ability of the oil to flow through a hole of a
certain size diameter over a given period of time, cold. The
lower the number, the thinner the oil is.
The second (larger) number is when the oil is hot and the
50 relates to the same oil flow through the same hole over
the same given time.
The oil is formulated so that it is thin when the engine is
cold (to aid cold starting) and then thickens when the
engine is hot.

The oil filter is another critical part and you should
never buy the cheapest pattern made filter, cause it will
have less filtration paper that the genuine BMW item. The
filter stops all the crap from causing damage to the rest of
the engine and cheap ones do not have non return valves and
block up quickly. (The non return valve stops the oil filter
from being drained back into the sump). This will cause the
bottom end to wear out very quickly.

An engine wears the most on startup, and letting it idle
for extended periods before driving off is a no no. BMW
stated in their handbooks (70/80s) that you should drive
away as soon as possible so that the engine temp will come
up quicker and wear will be minimal.
When an engine is idling from cold, you get localised heat
spots and this leads to uneven wear and tear.

When I did the head on Richard's Turbo last year
(before he blew it up again), Rich got some oil for me to
use. I had to ask him to get some proper oil that suited a
turbo engine and not the SE spec oil he got for Classic
engines. The M10 is an old engine, but it's one of the
best around
and is made from superior metals (ie steel crank etc) so
treat it with the good stuff and don't skimp on Oil.

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:21:39 +0000From:
paulhill2002@btopenworld.comTo: bmw02@jiglu.comSubject: Re:
[bmw02] Notice anything different...

PHEW!!Let me know how you get on with the servo's
best PH
--- On Thu, 20/11/08, Damon h <...>
wrote:

From: Damon h <...>Subject: Re: [bmw02]
Notice anything different...To: "BMW '02
Owners" <...>Date: Thursday, 20
November, 2008, 2:10 PMRe: Notice anything different...
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Thanks Paul, it makes the car feel so much more
solid andtogether. I should have made the original message
clearer,the car in front of me broke down and belched soot
all overmy nice clean car. Whats more, I nearly crashed
into ittoo but luckily the brakes do their job damn wellnow!
Update on the servo issue: It appears to be theservo at the
bottom which is a bit of a pain. Wedisconnected the top one
and the pedal either stayed stillor rose very slightly.
When switching it so the bottom wasdisconnected the pedal
sank a little on startup as itshould. Next up is to work
out where the loose metalrattling is coming from. John
suggested the baffle so Iwill have to investigate that.
I'm getting to thepoint where I'm running out of
mechanicals that needseeing to. Excellent!

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